You think you’ve discovered a secluded paradise, but instead, you find yourself trapped in a swarm of tourists, all scrambling to snap the perfect selfie. It’s time to take a closer look at the destinations that no longer deserve a spot in the Philippine tourism hall of fame.
In the first two parts of this series, we explored the sun-soaked, postcard-perfect places where life seems like one big Instagram highlight reel. But enough sugarcoating – let’s talk about the destinations where the shine has worn off.
These places bring to mind John Milton’s Paradise Lost, the epic tale of a fall from grace. The Philippines has its own version of ”lost paradises” – and they’re even more tragic. We might have the wisdom of the gods, but we’re stuck with the resources of mere mortals.
Travelers arrive at these overhyped “hidden gems” full of hope, only to leave full of regret. The disappointment runs so deep it doesn’t just taint the location – it can sour your view of the whole country. If this place was a letdown, what about the others?
To be fair, these ”lost paradises” still have their loyal fans. But they’re no longer what they used to be. Skipping them will save you time, patience, and mental energy – letting you discover far more rewarding destinations during your precious vacation.
The Chill of a Summer City
Baguio City – known as the ”Summer Capital of the Philippines” – is one of those places that, for me, exists more in memory than in present reality. Its rapid development has stripped away much of the charm it once had.
Baguio’s transformation from a picturesque, even romantically beautiful mountain retreat into an urban mess isn’t due solely to poor local governance. Geography has also played a role. Built on steep, mountainous terrain, the city was never well-suited for large-scale urban development. Its narrow, winding roads are overwhelmed by the growing population, and there’s simply no space to build more.
The city is split between two distinct realities: downtown Baguio and Camp John Hay. The latter was once an exclusive U.S. military facility before being turned over to the Philippine government in 1991. It was then developed into a recreational area and tourist attraction.
Up until the early 2000s, Camp John Hay remained a well-maintained pine forest getaway, preserving some of the best remnants of the American colonial period. Its calm, orderly atmosphere stood in sharp contrast to the increasingly chaotic city outside its gates.
But in recent decades, decline has crept into Camp John Hay as well. Its roads and historic buildings have fallen into disrepair, trash has piled up, and traffic pollution has taken its toll.
Still, Baguio isn’t without its redeeming features. The mountain views along the roads into the city are breathtaking, and from there, it’s easy to continue deeper into the Cordilleras. Once you’re out in the mountains, the traffic and smog of the city quickly fade into the background – leaving only the cool air and silence that Baguio used to promise.
The Ninth Wonder of the World
The Banaue Rice Terraces are often promoted as the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Personally, I think the real ninth wonder is how they were allowed to fall into such a state of neglect – especially after enduring a ten-hour car or bus ride just to see them.
Some of the terraces in the Banaue region are over 2,000 years old. While a number are still cultivated, they’re no longer used exclusively for rice – vegetables now grow in many plots. Farming the terraces is backbreaking work; the terrain limits the use of machinery, and much of the labor must be done by hand. Many terraces have been abandoned as younger generations pursue modern lifestyles, leaving fewer people willing to maintain this ancient agricultural system.
The most famous terraces lie just outside the small town of Banaue, where tourism has taken root in the most uninspired way: a handful of modest, absurdly overpriced hotels, and rice buffets that leave you with a distinct sense of being overcharged. They could have crafted their “come-here-and-leave-your-money” strategy in a way that made everyone feel good about it, but in Banaue, customer satisfaction is hardly a lasting sensation.
On a clear day, the view of the terraces is still beautiful – just not quite as spectacular as you’d expect after such a long journey. At the designated viewpoints, tourists console themselves with obligatory selfies and photos of elderly Ifugao tribespeople dressed in colorful traditional outfits, smiling in exchange for tips. And who could blame them for smiling? It’s a far more comfortable gig than squatting in the muddy fields.
If you’ve already made it to Banaue, you might as well hike to the nearby village of Batad, if the weather permits. In Batad, as in many remote villages of the region, time seems to have stood still. You’ll get a glimpse of mountain life as it has always been and likely will remain for years to come.
If hiking isn’t your thing, continue your journey beyond Banaue into the heart of the Cordillera mountains. There, the views start to justify the long haul. The road from Banaue to Bontoc and on to Baguio is one of the most scenic in the Philippines. On a clear day, the mountain views are breathtaking. On a rainy day, you’ll spend most of the ride literally driving through clouds.
One Out of a Hundred Islands
The Hundred Islands National Park lies on the western coast of Luzon, in the Lingayen Gulf. This 6.5-square-kilometer protected area is made up of 124 islands, remnants of ancient coral reefs. At some point in history, sea levels dropped, exposing portions of these reefs above the surface. Over time, waves sculpted several of the islands into unusual, mushroom-like shapes.
Hundred Islands is a great destination if you want to see many tropical islands in just one day. You can join a guided tour or rent a private boat. There’s nothing fundamentally wrong with the national park: the islands are beautiful, the water is clear, and the snorkeling is rewarding for those who enjoy exploring the underwater world.
So why include this destination in a write-up that leans critical? Because it’s a good example of a natural attraction with all the right elements, yet one that doesn’t quite live up to its potential. It’s like ordering a top-grade steak at a restaurant and getting it served cold and without seasoning.
This kind of experience is all too common in the Philippines: A sign points you toward a supposedly spectacular natural site deep in the forest. You’re told to leave your car at a designated spot (parking fee: 100 pesos), pay an entrance fee (50 pesos for locals, 250 for foreigners), and proceed along a precarious path – often a series of rotting, slippery bamboo planks – hoping to reach the attraction without twisting an ankle. If you’re hungry, your only food option is whatever the sari-sari store at the parking lot has left: usually a cold serving of rice slapped into a Styrofoam box, topped with a burnt lump of pork fat.
For a long time, that was the vibe at Lucap Wharf, the jump-off point for Hundred Islands tours. In recent years, some improvements have been made: a tourist center has been built, along with a few hotels and restaurants. Still, the overall atmosphere remains lackluster – it doesn’t quite measure up to the natural beauty waiting out on the islands.
Pagsanjan’s Fallen Falls
If you’ve seen the iconic Vietnam War film Apocalypse Now, you’ll remember Captain Willard and his crew drifting deeper into the jungle’s shadowy heart in search of the elusive Colonel Kurtz. The film premiered in 1979, but shooting began as early as 1976, with key scenes filmed in Baler on the Pacific coast and Iba on the western shores of Luzon.
Back then, Hollywood filmmakers didn’t have the “we’re-the-good-guys” passport to shoot in actual locations in in communist Vietnam. When Typhoon Olga destroyed the original river scenes shot in Iba, the production relocated to the Magdapio River in Pagsanjan.
Even before the movie added to its fame, the river and waterfalls near Pagsanjan were already a popular tourist destination. Just a few hours’ drive from Metro Manila, it was a weekend escape for city dwellers eager to enjoy the lush countryside and a refreshing swimming.
One of the main attractions was the thrilling boat ride – small wooden canoes expertly navigated by skilled local boatmen through rapids and gorges. For years, this experience was featured prominently on Philippine tourism posters, second only to the Banaue Rice Terraces.
But that was then. Today, the idyllic postcard image no longer reflects reality. Locals still try to make a living off a destination whose heyday has long passed. The boat tours, now billed as “rafting adventures,” are absurdly overpriced. The once-mighty river has lost much of its flow, and what remains is a sluggish, foul-smelling trickle, choked with pollution.
The riverside “resorts,” somehow still operating despite the decay and repeated demolition orders, continue to charge five-star prices for moldy, dilapidated rooms. Still, if you’re a fan of Apocalypse Now, a quick day trip to see the filming location might be worth checking off your list.
Man is a shark to whale sharks
The whale shark is the largest fish in the world, growing up to 18 meters (59 feet) in length and weighing as much as 15 tons. Despite their size, these gentle giants pose no threat to humans. Sadly, their populations are in decline, and the species is now classified as critically endangered.
Tourism money is also an endangered industry. I can understand why local fishermen have turned to whale shark tourism as an alternative livelihood that provides an extra source of income for their families and communities.
I also understand the travelers. People are willing to pay for the illusion of exotic uniqueness, enduring long, cramped minibus rides just for a brief encounter. Watching whale sharks has a haunting resemblance to Thailand’s circus elephants, but it’s not quite the same.
Whale sharks are endangered wild animals, and unlike elephants, turning them into a commercial attraction doesn’t contribute to their conservation. Still, both whale sharks and the local fishermen feed from the same source: an endless stream of selfies and viral videos flooding the internet.
The most popular places to see whale sharks are Donsol on the Bicol Peninsula, Oslob on Cebu Island, and Pintuyan on Leyte Island. The best time for whale shark tours is in the early morning, from January through the end of May.
Islands of Strange Creatures
The Philippines is home to two islands where generations of isolation and close-knit communities have shaped a unique – and at times unsettling – local atmosphere: Dinagat and Lubang. Setting foot on either one feels like entering the opening scene of a psychological thriller – everything appears normal at first glance, but something just doesn’t sit right beneath the surface.
Dinagat Island lies off the northeastern coast of Mindanao. For decades, life on the island was heavily influenced by the Elceon family, who founded a religious-political sect called the Philippine Benevolent Missionaries Association in 1965. Though its influence has waned over time, a lingering “you’re either with us or against us” mentality still hangs in the air. Locals may not express open hostility toward outsiders, but their body language, glances, and subtle cues send a clear message: You’re not welcome here.
Lubang Island, by contrast, is located just off Manila Bay, geographically close to the capital, but mentally and culturally stuck in another era. The people aren’t openly rude to tourists, but there’s a heavy air of suspicion. “What are you doing here?” they might ask. “There’s nothing here worth seeing.”
Some of this wariness may trace back to the island’s most infamous figure: Japanese intelligence officer Hiroo Onoda. At the end of World War II, Onoda refused to believe the war was over and went into hiding in Lubang’s jungle-covered mountains. For nearly 30 years, he lived in secrecy, occasionally raiding villages for food and livestock, terrorizing the locals. It’s little wonder that modern-day visitors curious about Onoda’s story are often met with a cold reception.
In the next part of this series, I’ll explore the Philippines’ rising travel destinations and the most promising places for the future of tourism.
More on the topic:
The Philippines as a Tourist Destination (part 1)
The Philippines as a Tourist Destination (part 2)
